Happy New Year!

We are 13.75 hours ahead of Beautiful British Columbia and we may or may not stay awake to greet the new year. We have been sleeping a lot lately. It is dark by 6pm, and nothing entices me to get out of bed before 7am, even though we are asleep well before 10pm. 

Heath is a little under the weather gastrointestinal- wise, he's had epic sleeping days and power naps. We'll let you know how we spent Christmas and New Years in another log. 

We wanted to pass along wishes of peace, love and prosperity for you and your families 

in the New Year. 

Did you make a resolution? I've been making the same resolutions for years, so I never have trouble thinking them up- just following them! 

Heath and I met on New Years, so this date has extra special meaning for us.

Namaste

school, yoga and hash

We have met a lovely community of volunteers through VSN. They are all young and intelligent 19 or 20-somethings open to learning about new cultures, a new breed of travelers with a conscious wanting to do something good for the world. It has been exciting being around this youthful energy. One particular volunteer, Darcie, who shared our homestay, is a year from becoming an MD in Australia. She left today, leaving us with sweet words on a card. She states she has optimism for adults now, after seeing that our family has picked up our lives to travel around the world for 9 months. The young volunteers have had the most impact on Raven. Darcie, Karen and Vincent have been so great with her, treating her better than a little sister. I think she can relate to them better than she can with the Nepalese kids her own age. This may be in part due to the language, but also the shared western cultural values. Visiting Nepal this way has been excellent, as we can make semi permanent homes and relationships. Pepsi Cola is safe enough that we can leave Raven to walk to the school, shops or the VSN office by herself, or go out for lunch with another volunteer without us. This gives her so much needed independence in a country that had we be visiting in the traditional way, we would never let her out of our sight!

I have started teaching at the school in the mornings. This school is so rich in resources when compared with the empty classrooms of Salleri. There is paint on the walls, books in the libraries and even a computer lab. Tej, the director of VSN, wanted me to have some input on how the school functions here- and I can honestly say it is a good place to be. The teachers care about the kids, and while there is still the emphasis on rote learning, there is no information that I can impart as a 'quick fix'. Change has to be wanted by the teachers, and put in place in a non threatening and positive way. His school program is his baby, and he has just hired an experienced volunteer coordinator to better meet the needs of the volunteers so he can focus on the management side of things. It is nice to see such a hard working forward thinker in a traditionally laid back- don't fix it if it ain't completely broke- kind of culture.

The 21^st, Friday, we got up early to go to the Indian Consulate to get our visa process started. We knew we had to make 3 visits, as Vincent had let us know how he did this last month. We took a taxi and got there by 8:30am. While talking to a tourist in line we were informed us that they had just changed the process. Last night we should have downloaded and printed the online visa application form. We couldn't even get to an internet cafe and do it this day because the forms are dated, and it had to be done exactly the day before. We realized the passport size photos that we got done yesterday were also not the correct size, so we had to get re-dos. We had a bit of a shopping trip in Thamel, instead of waiting in the Indian Embassy for hours. My other goal for the day was to locate the Bikram Hot Yoga studio. I found where it WAS, but could not locate the new location, if there was one. The phone number on their facebook page was outdated (I had our host family call the other day) and I was wanting to find out when classes were, so I could participate in a heated cardio yoga session. No luck. It seems nothing is easy here!

On our ramble to search for the studio, Raven did find a Baskin-Robins, and ate candy floss ice cream, which tasted fairly authentic! She had the tiniest little scoop, but I think it was worth it. Frozen items are not plentiful in a country where the power goes out daily because of load shedding. We also stopped for lunch in Mandala Street at a western style bakery. We ate tasty little bakery pizzas, heated in the microwave. The cheese on the pizzas here is yak cheese- think a harder parmesan style cheese, not quite as nippy. It doesn't really melt, hence the pizzas are not greasy like when made with Canadian cheddar or mozzarella. This deli was selling some kind of Christmas fruit cake and we saw Butterball turkeys in the freezer! I hope they have a backup generator! Since we are not planning on celebrating Christmas until our return in July we didn't bother enquiring about either items.

Friday night we went out for a traditional 'goodbye volunteer' dinner in recognition of Darcie leaving Nepal. There is an Indian restaurant nearby that 11 of us went to. We ate tasty Indian food at the Manohara Restaurant and Party Palace! I expected the restaurant to be indoors, but we had an outside concrete hut with a tarp roof. The table was low, Japanese style, and we sat on pillows. It was pretty chilly, especially as we had to take our shoes off at the door. The waiter seemed pretty confused by serving so many westerners, but got most of the orders correct. Surprisingly, none of the volunteers ordered rice with their curries! We watched the chefs make our fresh garlic naan instead.

Saturday is the only day off in Nepal. Since we took yesterday off for visas, it felt like an extra day today. Raven wanted to hang at home, as she had fallen and hurt her tailbone and wrist while roughhousing with the orphanage kids. She wasn't into traveling today and Heath has been fighting dizziness and diarrhea, so he was also content to stay home. I wanted to have a 'me' day and visit the Garden of Dreams and practice hot yoga, but that wasn't going to happen. When we went to go on the internet and skype at VSN in the morning, I couldn't find the new Bikram Hot Yoga location, if there really is one . The Garden of Dreams is a garden in the Thamel area. It costs 200R (2$) to enter, but doesn’t seem to be amazing enough to justify a bus trip on it's own, especially as it is winter, and most of the flowers won't be in bloom.

Tina, a volunteer from Belgium who practices yoga in the mornings with us, had mentioned a local run her host father had told her about that was happening in Pepsi Cola at 2pm. We flip flopped over whether we wanted to go or not- it sounded like a 'fun run' but we didn't want to be the only western women there, especially since neither of us have had any cardio exercise for a few months. At the last minute we decided to go. The deal sealer occurred when we were sitting in the LTC Fast Food an open garage door style restaurant opposite the football field waiting for lunch when another westerner approached us and asked “Are you here for the hash?” We all looked at him with confusion- this was a pretty brazen drug transaction! He meant the Harriers Hash- the Kathmandu running group that had today's run scheduled for this area. Restaurant food always takes ages, so we ended up scarfing some chowmein super quick before walking to the meeting site to sign up. 200 R for the non alcoholic run or 500R for the beer run. I figured that since I haven't run for 3 months, nor drank much alcohol in the same amount of time, I'd better choose the beer option. We had no idea how long the run was going to be, only an estimate of 5 km, with a beer stop en-route. Apparently, the Harriers used to have an actual hash smoking stop along the way, hence the name, but not any more. I was certain these people weren't elite athletes as a few were smoking cigarettes pre–start. This also lessened our anxiety abut the competition!

The small collection of runners were from many nationalities, mixed genders and abilities. After a quick introduction to the rules we set off. Apparently the run usually happens in the forested areas around Kathmandu, so the participants were a little upset about the 'ugliness' of this area. The route was marked by flour. Until we saw the first marker, Tina and I weren't sure if the organizers meant 'flower' or 'flour'. It was a little like orienteering. There were little sprinkles of flour along the route, but sometimes you'd have to route find because the flour sprinkles could be placed up to 200 meters apart. This was challenging when we came to an intersection. We were told to yell “on on” when we saw these, so no one got lost en-route. There were also designated 'wait' spots- the lead runners would wait for the slower ones to catch up before continuing. This ensured that no one got left behind. Sometimes the 'rabbits' would be busy running or walking ahead trying to find the flour markings, while us slower runners would wait, glad for the break while they 'caught the trail'.

 don't miss the flour markings...

 bridge

 view of Pepsi Cola

We wove through the agricultural area near the garbage strewn river, crossing a rickety bamboo and corrugated iron walking bridge, then through the 'slummier' areas. People live in small shacks in this area of no running water or sewer systems. It wasn't stinky, and I am sure they live quite well, given the circumstances. Nepalese people are clean and give high priority to cleanliness. Perhaps not to western levels of hygiene, but clean. We ran through their fields, on narrow raised pathways between the rice paddies and spinach and greens gardens. We were given some pretty strange looks- which we countered with a pleasant “Namaste!” as we continued along. This is one of the reasons I haven't yet gone running solo in the mornings- I don't want to flout that my life is so privileged that I need to invent a way to sweat and work! I guess I am afraid of being judged.

One of our 'catch up' breaks was in an open sandy area- apparently a few months ago an air-plane had missed the runway and crashed here, leaving 19 dead. Apparently this is a fairly regular occurrence.

At the end of the event (probably 5 km?) we all stood in a circle and toasted the newcomers and the virgins. The others sang a song, then we had to drink an allotted amount of beer from a brass cup. If we weren't finished in time we had to poor it on our heads. Luckily there were snacks to absorb the alcohol with- potato chips and carrots with dip, and banana bread. Hot momos arrived, and I ate one, thinking they were vegetarian, but it was saltier, and browner. I had consumed a buff momo. Oops. Good thing I'm not allergic!

 beer stop en route

Needless to say, I was fairly loaded by the end of the 'ceremonies'. I opened a beer for the road (big 650 ml beers) and started walking. I was chilled after standing around in sweaty clothes. Unfortunately I ran into my house mother sunning and chatting while sitting on her friend's shop steps on the way home. How to explain this- a Tshirt wearing woman in lycra pants stumbling down the road with an open beer?! I greeted her and told her 'not to ask' and continued along my happy way

The Epic Jeep Ride from Salleri To Kathmandu.

 

  The jeep driver was due to pick up our bags sometime Saturday before noon. We were still enjoying our tea and our ‘last dhal bhaat’, when we heard the distinctive rattling of a diesel jeep pulling up outside. Sure enough, a sharp, capable looking machine was disgorging passengers and shedding various loads from the roof rack. I was immediately excited. I love a good 4x4 trip as much as anybody, but this was going to be a marathon. Roughly 20 hours, depending on road blockages, breakdowns, food and fuel stops. We were asked if we could leave at 2:00 in the afternoon, instead of 3:00 AM. We would break up the drive with a food stop and a few hours of sleep in some town whose name we never did figure out.  We all agreed without hesitation, and started to plan our last few hours in Salleri. It was market day, which was a perfect send off, the most active and entertaining day of the week. Vincent and I made a last visit to the artist we’d befriended, who was painting yet another monastery. We cut our visit short, said our goodbyes, and got some snacks for the jeep ride. As we walked through Salleri one last time, I realized how much I would miss it. We were rarely comfortable, and Su did develop a nasty lung and ear infection, but the slow pace and friendly smiles had won me over. I’d miss the strong family and community bonds, general lack of marketing and media in general, and the close connection to the land, and to their religions. There is also something about having an old Nepali man or woman stop and stare at you, wide eyed and slack jawed, like you just stepped out of a spaceship. Our time in rural Nepal will never let me take for granted the level of luxury we have become accustomed to in Canada. We have so much, yet always consume more.

 

  Once we got to the jeep, I initially thought we were miscommunicating when they said there would be nine passengers. Thankfully they asked if I wanted to sit shotgun, up with the driver, and I selfishly jumped at the opportunity! In the second row, Su, Raven and Vincent could sit with their shoulders touching, reaching from one side of the jeep to the other, snug, but acceptable. Only one more person had to squeeze in; and four more sat in the space behind the seats, in the cargo area. I was very thankful to have such a great seat, taking pictures, and feeling slightly guilty. I think the first five hours were the roughest, we used the 4X4 the most during this first section, only ever using 1st and 2nd gear. We drove from 3:30 pm until 9:30 pm, when we ate dinner and slept for 4 hours in a hotel. The driver was a machine. Besides the dinner break, we drove from 3:30 AM until 12:30 PM, with one quick stop for tea as we waited for a river ferry. The ferry is an open concept steel barge,  using cables to position itself in the river, so that the current can propel it from side to side, held in place by an over -head cable and pulley system. Very efficient and ingenious, just a little slow.

  Flying over the brown scars of the rural roads connecting more and more communities with the city and the world, and even walking along the rutted, rocky and steep tracks, does nothing prepare you for how rough the roads really are. There were many sections that would certainly be completely impassable in the monsoon. Sections with deep, talcum powder dust, 5 or 6 inches deep,  would  quickly turn to impossibly slippery and steep deathtraps, with shear drop offs, complete with the wreckage of trucks  and busses that had never finished their journey. We lost the daylight all too early, but some part of me thought it was probably for the better, as we wound our way up and over valley after valley, switch-back by tight switch-back. Occasionally we could see clusters of dim lights on the hillsides below us, and even made out a few constellations, by chance or imagination. The dawn light revealed one of the largest rock-slides I’ve ever seen. Hope Slide is fairly impressive, but this unknown river of rock choked the valley, cutting away precious food producing terraces and leaving nothing but boulders and stone in return. The road carved into the unstable bank was pretty dodgy, but we had been given many blessings for a safe journey, so I wasn’t too terrified! After we crossed the river by ‘ferry’, we continued along the river bank for some time, driving through countless creeks, streams, and rivers, many of which had massive modern highway bridge construction projects, all in varying stages of completion. The terrain that separated these bridges was very rough; steep, bumpy, dusty tracks in a constant cycle of collapse and repair. We passed through some incredibly remote villages, a day’s walk from anywhere, cut off completely during the monsoon.  So basic, yet so beautiful and rare in their traditional and seasonal rhythm; and a lack of marketing and consumerist ideals, where family and community are everything.

  I had assumed that as we got closer to Kathmandu, the roads would begin to gradually improve. Yes and no… Eventually, we started being tempted by the siren call of a freshly paved highway down below, deceptively disappearing into the distance. We were still celebrating when it ended three minutes later, as we turned onto a very steep dusty grind that I was very glad I didn’t have to walk up. On the other side, as we were descending, a motorcycle had to stop in the deep, powdery dust to give us the right of way. He was instantly stuck. Some other pedestrians pushed him out and he wobbled on, disappearing up hill in a thick cloud of fine dust.

  I switched seats with Vincent, stretching some different muscles and moving my feet again after driving from 3:30 AM until 2:30 PM, on top of the 5 hours the night before.  Visibility was still quite good, but with nothing to hang onto in the middle seat, I was getting just tossed around, rag doll style.  My oblique, intercostal muscles and neck were still aching the next day. The jeep driver had stopped at one of the riverside “carwashes” once we hit pavement for good, scrubbing the beast down and tossing any garbage into the river, for at least half an hour. He lived in Pepsi Cola, so we knew where we would end up, but had gotten word that our old room was occupied, so we would still have to find out which place we’d be moving to. It was fully dark as we came into Kathmandu, but the smog was still noticeable, black and choking. Thankfully, Bishal and Angela were on hand to greet us and organize the weary travellers. It turned out that we could have the same homestay family! I had been dreaming of the spacious living room for daily yoga. It has worked out perfectly!

   I’ve started teaching a 7:30am daily class in the living room to some of the other volunteers. Tej also has plans for me to teach at the school. The afternoons are getting cool already, so it looks like I’ll only teach the morning class, but I am so thankful and full of joy at being able to guide these kindred spirits as we all continue the work of becoming aware, selfless,  and capable of making better decisions every day.  So much to be thankful for, even after a 27 hour jeep ride.

 

  I’ve just realized that tomorrow will be Christmas Eve! It certainly doesn’t feel like it, with highs around 22-24 degrees, and only occasional morning fog. The skies have been clear enough lately for us to realize the mountain ranges closest to Kathmandu actually loom over the city. We are thinking of all of you at home that we will miss so much this year. I’ve grown attached to the twinkling trees, the family gatherings, and the time we take to stop and enjoy the company of those closest to us (when they’re around ;). We send warm wishes, big hugs, and may joy overflow. Namaste, and Merry Christmas.

No sign of the apocalypse...

Back in Pepsi Cola

The stars are bright at night, and the planets are lining up. Is anyone else wondering about the 21^st of December? We are 14 hours ahead- but we might not be able to let you know of any impending doom!Seriously, this date is a curious one, but I am tending to look at it as a time of change, for the good. A new age hippy version of world peace and love through collective consciousness?

Most nights are clear, even with the smog of Kathmandu. We aren't up early enough in the morning to see many planets, but it is dark by 5:30 so we can see the early night sky. Heath has a handy feature on his phone that connects the constellations in the sky with a GPS. It outlines in red what stars we are looking at in the night sky, and even the ones that are below our horizon. We can see most mornings are some snow capped Himalayas! This city sits in the lush Kathmandu valley, but because of the smog we had no idea during our first month here that one was able to see snowy mountains in the distance. It must be clearer now because it is colder. Our hand washed laundry (hello warm water!) dries on the roof/patio of this 4 story house which is where we get the best view of the airport and environs.

Our first week (plus) back at Kathmandu we've laid pretty low, trying to rest and heal. Our respiratory systems took a beating in Salleri, and the epic long sleepless jeep ride didn't help to improve our immune systems. We are mostly feeling better, but some days are 'touch and go'. We seem to take turns as to who is 'down', which is nice (and helpful for the 'sickie').

On our first Saturday 'off'' we took the bus to 'downtown', an area called Sundhara which is walking distance from Thamel and New Road to watch a movie at the Civil Mall cinema. This was the first mall we have been to in Nepal. I bee-lined it to the first thing that caught my attention in the centre of the shops- a cafe! Heath and I lounged on the pleather couch chairs, drinking cafe o'laits while Rave window shopped. Since we were sitting at the bottom of the seven storey open concept mall (Think: the Bay Centre ) she'd call down from every floor she took the escalator up to. I prefer the busy crazy style of street front shops and road vendors to this hygienic, clean and brightly lit place with pumping pop music, but we were there for a movie, not shopping. We watched Breaking Dawn II. Like European theatres, we got to choose our seating. We bought a large tasty salty and 'buttery' popcorn and 2 cokes. We could have chosen vegie burgers, hotdogs, fries or nachos to eat, but we didn't have quite enough cash on us. We spent the equivalent of 12 dollars for everything and the movie theater was top quality. On our way in the security wanted me to leave my water bottle at the coat check, but I convinced them I needed it for my raging cough. I refuse to buy bottled water when we have a filter that cuts down on plastic bottle waste. I had wanted to excuse myself from watching this particular movie, but in the end was glad I sat though it, as the west coast rainforest it was filmed in reminded me keenly of home.

Beyond a few key people, I miss Canadian freedom, safety, clean air and the proximity of our home to nature. I will never take for granted the ability to run through local parks and forests. I haven't attempted this here yet- due to the air quality, but also not wanting to be seen as a crazy western lady. (More than I already do?) My fitness is slipping, even with the pilates and yoga I attempt every so often. Heath has been teaching a morning yoga class, but it isn't quite the same for a cardio junkie like me:) I did see an advertisement for 6am Zumba in Pepsi Cola, and there is a Bikrams studio in Thamel, but I have yet to check them out. 6Am seems to be a bit of a stumbling block.

Raven and I bought facemasks. Many people wear the cotton mouth and nose protection here. They have no real filter in them and I think they will only filter the larger particulate matter, but it may well be better than nothing, especially with our lungs and respiratory systems feeling compromised from sinus issues to begin with. The sweet smell of burning plastic is prolific. That definitely doesn't get filtered with a hello kitty face mask!  

We are loving our family more than ever here. They have been so kind, giving halls and hot water, fruit, etc. They treat us like a real family.It is Kumari's birthday today. We were told to show up for 5:30 for a 'little party'. Lets see what transpires- I bought a bottle of Australian Shiraz, just to be on the safe side. I haven't had wine since we left, and only enough beers to count on one hand since arriving in Nepal. The Raksi (rice 'wine' or whiskey) is too strong for me. Heath likes it.

Sick and tired of being sick and tired

The last days in Sallaeri I felt like my respiratory system was shutting down. I would cough all night- the hacking kept myself and everyone else up. The lack of more than a few good night's sleep compromised my immune system, which in turn made my cold worsen. Wednesday afternoon I went home sick from school, after drinking some of the canteen's lovely rich spiced tea to ease my throat. Thursday I dragged myself to school and attempted to teach with a little voice so as not to encourage coughing. Friday, my last day, I was too sick to go. I felt so badly about this and had a little pity party in my bed, crying about how rotten I felt. It was emotionally difficult for me to not go, a few of the kids had told me they would miss me and I wanted to give them a fun (and educational! ;) ) last day. I also felt obligated to fulfil my volunteer objectives- I felt bad that I was not 'following through' with what I said I would do, and felt that my body 'let me down'.

Raven has also been suffering the respiratory distress, but Thursday night she was also throwing up. (How Heath can sleep through times like these amazes me!) Luckily there was a bucket that lives in the hallway that I was able to grab for her use- The bucket is intended for Soobaum to urinate in during the night, much easier for his parents instead of having to get up and escort him down 4 flights of cold dark stairs, through the dungeon like trap door and into the bathroom.

The father had gotten up while Raven was 'using the bucket' and the only thing he seemed concerned about was the bucket being replaced- not “Is your daughter ok?” . My emotional state was pretty fragile this day, and that (on top of a few other things) tipped me over the edge into near hysterics. I had a hard time believing that this family could appear so uncaring when 2 of the 4 volunteers staying with them were evidently ill. I tried to view this through a multicultural lens and an open mind/heart, but truthfully I am still incredulous, especially in light of others in Salleri who have shown kindness, and returning to our warm, caring family in Pepsi Cola.

Friday was doubly disappointing because we were looking forward to dinner at the Sherpa's house, and Raven was looking forward to spending time with her friend from Singapore. I knew we couldn't 'not' show up to dinner- so at about 3pm I hauled my butt out of bed with some oranges, gum and 'choco-fun' bars as a gift. I slowly walked the half an hour to their house to tell them we were too sick to join them for dinner. I was ushered inside, offered no less than 4 cups of traditional salt Tibetan tea, and conversed with the father, Gelu. Their young son was chanting at his altar, he was shy and would pause whenever I glanced over. I watched as Gelu's wife Kanchhe poured tea from the thermos into small metal bowls on the altar. When I enquired about it- she looked confused at first, then gave a great belly laugh and told me it was water! I had mistaken the thermoses. I attempted to leave many times, in fact I had no intention to stay, but of course they would hear nothing of it. Kanchhe and her daughter were preparing food in the kitchen and I tried to tell them I was sick, had a small appetite, and needed to get home before dark when Kanchhe put out the most delicious food I had eaten in Solukombu yet. She had made traditional potato pancakes, with buff (buffalo) butter melting on top, and a small side dish of what looked like chipolte yogurt- a spicy topping. Next she placed some fried sliced potatoes on my plate. Yum! Then a glass of warm buff milk, rich and creamy. I was so sad we couldn't all be there, healthy, feasting and enjoying the company. I was feverish by the time I came home, joined my family in our bed nest and had no room for dinner later. 

Early Saturday, Mohan, the principal of the school, called the house and let us know the jeep was ready to pick up our bags in the morning. It would potentially be ready to leave 2:00pm, not 4:00am as we were expecting. Mohan has been exceptional with regards to ensuring our transport, communicating information, and ensuring the jeep would drop us off in Pepsi Cola. He said he was going to see us off at 4 in the morning, and I don't doubt that he would’ve been there. He saw us off in the afternoon, and (I'll let Heath tell you the story of the jeep ride), when we got to the mid-way hostel- the phone rang for us- it was the principal checking in to make sure things were fine! He had called ahead to ensure we had tasty food and a bed to sleep in for a few hours. What a sweetheart.

Monday – Thursday PepsiCola

These have been stay-at-home sick days for Raven and I. I have a full blown sinus infection, no doubt the long jeep ride did nothing to improve my health. We are all so happy to be back at our loving, roomy house. The house parents have been kind- ensuring I drink enough hot lemon water, and making me some kind of herbal remedy tea from their balcony garden. I REALLY wanted to dive into my stash of antibiotics, but Heath is wise to say that I need to keep all my pro-biotics for India's germs and diseases. One of the volunteers,Darcy, is a year away from becoming a MD in Australia, she claims that studies show antibiotics aren't indicated in sinus infections. Lungs, yes, not heads. Pity. My pity party could use some pharmaceutical 'pick me up'.

So what is the lesson? Not to go stir crazy lying around. Not doing 'nothing' is doing 'something'. My daily outing has been to lunch at LTC Fast Food and cafe. (A bit of a misnomer, as it takes an hour to get food on the table. This is normal in Nepal.) Healthy Heath reminds me- “The only thing you have to do is rest and get better”. “Present moment, Perfect moment” (Thich Nhat Hahn) . Today is day four of bed-rest and self care, and I am slowly healing. I still fight my personal recriminations for not 'doing enough', seeing enough, helping enough. Being sick with a nasty cold still seems like such a waste of time when one is travelling, but I'll try to view it as gaining energy for the future....

an epic jeep ride to kathmandu

We have arrived back to Kathmandu, safe and sound, 26 hours later, with a few tailbone bruises and incredible scenery.....more to come, as soon as we catch up on some sleep!

There were many questions, both asked and implied, regarding the significance of our eventual wedding this year. I would always scoff when friends ‘bought in’ to the whole marriage thing. I never really got, but I’m thankful that I finally did. The story of our fateful meeting at the turn of the millennium is one of passion and destiny. Before we knew where we were going, and long before the fire had burned down to a glowing bed of coals, Raven was on her way. We committed ourselves to raising a child, as all parents do, without reservation. As our little angel grew and flourished, we started to drift back to our own separate lives. We assumed the roles that we thought good parents should shoulder, providing a stable, stimulating and worldly environment. Being a parent is by far the most challenging task one can take on. Children reflect all of our faults back at us, and when it comes to being a stable, nurturing father, I have many. I didn’t have a father to turn to or emulate, but I inherited two incredible families through Su and Raven. I am eternally grateful for being accepted so completely, being such a novice. I have learned so much about family and community through this network of caring, compassionate, and diverse network of newfound relations. But something still wasn’t quite right. I needed more than 9-5 and weekend retreats. Su needed more. We needed more.

 We tried more stuff, more vacations, more sailing, and more beer and wine…What we really needed was more of each other. We had dedicated ourselves to being good parents, but had never dedicated ourselves to each other. I’ve never signed a lease, cell phone contract, or even bought a gym membership. I’ve always been more of a ‘drop-in’ kind of guy. We obviously did some soul searching. I cycled away, across the continent, getting closer to home the further I went. Things started to click. The solution and the journey towards it suddenly became clear. Su and Raven gave me a future I never could have foreseen, the greatest gift in a life full of good fortune.

  All relationships require maintenance, but there is so much more. We should facilitate each other to grow, to evolve, to strive for our full potential. We are complementary creatures. We can, and should become greater together than separately. I became committed to doing whatever was necessary to honor that union. Su is the most amazing woman I know, and I am a better man because of her. I started to learn to honor myself, to take a path that leads through fear and into understanding, faith, and unity. Our wedding was a public declaration of gratitude, commitment, and dedication, not only to each other, but to our family, our friends, our community. You have all given us so much, nurtured us, and allowed us to thrive in, and as a family. I thank you all more than you could possibly know. My most sincere wish is to be able to facilitate growth, evolution, contentment and joy in return. Namaste.

Dreaming of India, and thinking too much...

We’re all dreaming of India. Not that we haven’t enjoyed our time in Salleri, but I’m sure Su has covered most of the physical challenges and frustrations. We’ve encountered so much hospitality and met so many wonderful people. I’ve enjoyed exploring for kilometers around the rarely used dirt roads and trails, always delighted by the peacefulness, the hardy self-sufficiency of the rural Nepalese, and by the countless shrines and stupas. Making offerings, prayer, and honoring Buddha and the gods are an integral part of daily life. We took Vincent up to the Everest lookout, but there were clouds blowing up from the next valley and obscuring the view. We waited for a while, and were rewarded with a few peeks as the clouds occasionally thinned. After a few obligatory photos, we descended to the little rustic teahouse on the saddle of the ridge. The clouds were flowing up and over the low point, reducing visibility to 100 meters and imparting the place with an eerie sense of isolation. If it hadn’t been for the prayer flags, it would have been perfectly spooky.  The children always provide my fondest encounters, with their enthusiastic greetings, bright eyes and filthy clothes, and the simple joys of childhood tomfoolery. Playing ‘marbles’ with rocks, chasing hoops and broken wheels down the dusty road, past chickens and goats, perfectly content with simple, pieced together toys.

   Even though Vincent and I never had a chance to volunteer at the monastery, we’ll still have some great memories. During yet another visit to inquire about teaching, they assured us how much they appreciate foreign teachers, but were simply too busy before the winter break. We were invited back the next morning, for a ceremony that a very senior lama was flying in by helicopter for. He was to bless the new stupa that has just been built, and is still being painted. We skipped morning dhal bhaat to arrive by the 8:00 ‘starting time’. We had tea, took some more pictures of the monastery, and talked with a few people from the gathered crowd. Suddenly…around 10:30, a red helicopter approached, coming in lower and lower, the noise of the blades a stark contrast to the serenity of the setting. Vincent was low on batteries for his camera, and so we were we waiting and wondering where it was going to touch down. As we all stared up in anticipation, a window on the right  side of the chopper opened, and a yellow bag jutted out into the wash of air, then a hand started reaching in and dropping something, handful by handful. I’m still not sure what it was, it blew away as soon as it was released, either marigold blossoms or an orange powder. After one complete loop around the stupa, instead of landing, the helicopter turned and flew away! Vincent and I looked at each other with puzzled expressions on our faces, before breaking into hysterical laughter. That was it?! A fly-by blessing; who would have thought?

  I’ve been researching some ashrams and yoga ‘hotspots’ in India. Since we’ll be leaving Nepal earlier than we originally thought, we will have four months on the sub-continent. This makes it possible to travel all the way to the far south, where we can enjoy elephant parades, beaches, and some interesting ashrams. There is even an international community of over 3000 people called Auroville, which is supposed to be a model for sustainable living, devoted to the continued evolution and unification of the human spirit. Along the way, we’ll have the chance to take in some of the holiest sites and temples in India and the world. If the timing works out, we may even help sea turtle hatchlings make their way back to the sea, instead of being lured to their demise by the headlights of a nearby highway. Travel in India can be exhausting, but the rewards are certainly worth the effort.  I know I’m ready for some heat, and the challenges ahead.

  I’ve devoured most of the books that were weighing down my pack. Amy Tan’s ‘Hundred Secret Senses’ is a must read, insightful story of the paths we follow through our connections with the past. ‘The Three Day Road’, by Joseph Boyden is not exactly uplifting, but is an incredible tale about a Native hunter returning from the trenches of WW I, contrasting the familiar and sometimes harsh traditional Cree lifestyle with the brutal reality of war. Thanks for that one Herb! Also, I finally brought myself to read ‘High Tide’, by Mark Lycas. A fascinating voyage that tours the front lines of places being affected by climate change at the turn of the millennium. Full of real world implications on the lives and the cultures impacted, and backed up with the current science of the time. It’s a little depressing, but illustrates the challenges we will all have to face in the near future. Given the undeniable need to make drastic and sweeping changes to the way of life we take for granted, I hold little hope of world governments achieving anything approaching a timely and feasible solution. At this point, the global economy is mired in debt, unable to even make the interest payments without adding to the burden future generations will have to pay for.  Corporations and the ultra-rich absolutely refuse to consider the equal distribution of resources, valuing abstract figures of ‘wealth’ over the health and wellbeing of the majority of humanity. The era of plentiful and easily accessible energy, and the civilization built around exploiting it, is increasingly short lived.  Just as the unprecedented Roman Empire became mired in excess and lack of decisive leadership, our system of global and systematic overuse and outright destruction of the ecosystems necessary to support the burgeoning populations, will fail the test of time. Humans are already causing the sixth largest extinction in history of the planet. Nearly all species are in decline, except for humans, and the few creatures adapted to the urban environment. Some scientists estimate that at current rates, up to half of all species will be extinct by 2100. We now live in the Anthropocene Period…an era marked by catastrophic human impact on the global ecosystem.

   I know…blah, blah, blah. Accepting the reality of an unsustainable way of life is overwhelming. The irony of my own hypocrisy is not lost on me. I’m as unprepared to give up the ability to travel as anyone. I enjoy the freedom to visit friends and family, and to explore the very places that are threatened, but still intact. The implications of making significant change in our day to day lives are much more than most people are willing to accept. For every person that decides to make an educated choice to reduce their impact to a reasonable level, there are 5 billion more waiting in line for a chance to enjoy a piece of ‘The American Dream’.  The continuation of rapidly melting glaciers, deforestation and pollution, is understandably, yet regrettably, unavoidable. Developing countries are producing rapid growth of industry, vehicles and population with every passing year, unchecked by any effective regulation or foresight. Carbon emissions reach new highs every year as the ice melts, the sea rises, floating islands of plastic collect in the oceans, and damaging weather becomes commonplace.  Even though technologies are available that are cleaner, in rural Nepal, if your propane stove breaks down, or fuel is unavailable or too expensive, wood always burns, and it’s free. Most of the trees around here are stripped of all but the highest branches, and wood smoke hangs acridly over the village. As oil stocks become more expensive and difficult to extract, will dirty, yet plentiful coal meet the increasing demands for energy? Any remotely feasible replacement for our energy needs is decades from actual production and distribution, even without considering the need to upgrade the aging infrastructure, and the increasing damage\repair cycles caused by ‘extreme weather events’. How will we run a fleet of electric cars, when high use of air-conditioners causes blackouts now? The market driven economies depend on ‘consumers’ more than ‘communities’. How can oil and gas companies be making all time record profits, while local governments go bankrupt? Why are hospitals, schools, and social security programs struggling to provide the services we see as integral to an advanced civilization? We have thrown the planet out of a long-standing balance. Our efforts at mitigating the damage, and the hard won victories, are miniscule compared to the actions and policies perpetuated by ‘economic growth’. Constant growth, as required by capitalism, is simply impossible with finite resources. A complete departure from our status quo values is necessary. Ancient ‘tribal’ cultures had a vast knowledge of the energy systems linking all life, and thrived by honoring their role as a part of that system. I have absolute faith in the adaptability and determination of the human spirit. The Mayans had acquired immense knowledge and power that we still can’t decipher, but had predicted the end of an age and the beginning of another, as have many esteemed sources over the ages. Matthew 5:5 - The meek shall inherit the Earth. Our attachments to a dysfunctional culture will be the greatest challenge to the evolution of the current generation. Will we flee from the proverbial Sodom and Gomorrah, or gaze back longingly at the fleeting source of hedonistic over-indulgence?  

   I know that I sound cynical, but I’m actually very optimistic. I envision an evolution, a return to a more symbiotic relationship with our only real source of prosperity: respectful and accountable community. Conflict usually stems from ignorance and fear. I hope we can integrate the knowledge we’ve accumulated, proving that we are indeed all brothers and sisters, sharing common needs, common ancestors, the same fresh air and drinkable water. I know that I’m a dreamer, but I’m not the only one…David Choquehuanca, the Minister of External Affairs in Bolivia , explained that Coca-Cola will be expelled from Bolivia on the same day that the Mayan calendar enters a new cycle–December 21. According to Choquehuanca, “the date marks the end of capitalism and the start of a culture of life in community-based societies, an era marked by the end of hatred and the beginning of love. The twenty-first of December 2012 is the end of selfishness, of division.”

  I’ve definitely been struggling with some yogic challenges, but I know that joy and contentment, and the ability to make better choices on a daily basis, are always available if we dedicate the time to knowing and honoring ourselves. Every single choice we make has consequences, and requires a simple decision: Will this benefit the greater good, or simply satisfy a selfish, short-sighted desire? What could be more important for each of us, and those we love, than to make the effort to become more aware of our true needs, our true self, and our place among all life on Earth? That’s my two cents…

Buff milk and Video Games

Friday was the half day at school. We grabbed some samosas to eat for lunch en-route to the internet cafe. Our online time ended abruptly at 3:30 as the rotating load shedding (no more electricity for you!) hit the upper part of Salleri. We returned home, left Raven to her IPOD, then took a walk past the next little town of Dorphu to see a white 'Buddha eye' roadside stupa that I had seen a few days before. All of Nepal has these ancient monuments- most of them with Tibetan stone tablets carved by monks and left to weather the elements. On our way back we met an English speaking Sherpa who has retired from guiding to tend his farm. I had met and chatted with his daughter on a similar walk earlier in the week. He recognized this, and as we were just outside his house, he invited us in for tea. We accepted, knowing that Heath had packed a flashlight and Raven might be a little worried that when we return later than expected and in the dark.

Heath and I met the family- his 10 year old son, wearing red monks robes, had just returned to his family from his monastic schooling on the other side of the ridge, perhaps a four hour walk? The monasteries close down for the winter, as it is too cold for study. His wife was dressed in traditional mountain garb, while his daughter, aged 15, was wearing more western clothes. They had a small kitten, just separated from it's mother, mewling under the bench we sat on. Their house was warm- it seemed far more air tight than the house we stay in. To make us tea, the daughter had to light the fire and someone went out to milk the buffalo. We made small talk in both Nepalese and English. The father invited us to stay for dinner, but we explained about our daughter waiting and being potentially worried, so we made a dinner date for the next Friday.

Saturday was market day, so after buying mandarins and eating our dhal bhat breakfast, Heath, Vincent and I took the walk up the ridge see Everest again. It took about 2 hours as we were able to walk a faster pace (with no complaining) because Raven refused to come along – she had 'better things' to do (read: walk to the internet cafe so she could research for a science project and 'Facebook'.) We wandered a few steps higher this time, to a place where prayer flags were tied to large post-like branches placed securely in the ground. We appreciated the silence found in this high rhododendron forest. No people, no talking. Only the sound of birds singing and prayer flags rippling in the breeze. It was exquisite to be bathed in warmth from the sun. These are the quiet nature moments that I'll treasure as Kathmandu and India will be loud and hugely populated. As we climbed up we noticed clouds following the valley from the west. They accumulated lower down the ridge and obscured our complete view of the Himalayas but we were able to catch glimpses of Everest in the gaps.

The dirt levels have accumulated on our bodies. Washing and personal hygiene has become 'winter camping style' for me. It is too cold to wash my whole body, so I have been reapplying deodorant in the morning and washing my face every third day. There is dirt and dust on my feet that I haven't bothered to wash off for days. Teeth always get brushed but the rest of my body is covered with a thin layer of grime. I hope it is keeping me warmer! My clothes aren’t faring much better. We are all looking forward to a washing machine...or at least hand washing in warm water. Not to mention the dream of a hot shower in Pepsi Cola.

Since we spend much of the evening hours sequestered in our tiny room huddled under blankets, I have become a video game player. Yes, it is true. Raven and Heath poke fun at me about being a Luddite, but I have mastered the art of playing stupid games on the IPOD. I now enjoy entertaining games such as Om Nom and Happy Fall. Raven thinks I suck at them, but they help while the hours away when the electricity is out and I have read enough. They were both so kind as to download Tetris for me, the only game that I 'pwn'.