Tuesday, November 27, 2012

We're Chilly Willy, but the food is hot and spicy!

Our family is getting along surprisingly well being that we sleep and 'hang out' together under blankets in a chilly 2 metre square room from about 4pm to 8am, with a break to go downstairs for dinner. After dinner Vincent joins us for a fun Israeli card game that we learnt in the tea houses while trekking. Raven usually wins. The power 'brown outs' have recently changed their times. Now there's no power between the inconvenient hours of 6 and 9pm. Heath has been excellent at ensuring that our headlamps and electronic devices are powered up.

Daily I will sit in the kitchen and try to converse with the family. They sometimes ask me to help Soobaum with his homework. I find this is an excellent way to gain an afternoon cup of tea! Unfortunately we seem to be allotted only the morning cup. At least now Heath and Raven receive their sweet black (brown) coffee. Yes, Raven enjoys a cup of morning coffee, not tea.

I am interested in how the women cook, but the language barrier is pretty big, so I am left with watching the proceedings. I know most of the Nepalese vegetable names and I am trying to figure out the spices that they include. Turmeric seems to be the popular one. We eat a lot of potato and cauliflower veggie curry with the dhal bhaat. Sometimes they make pickles. In the larder area there are various jars of pickled items. They taste 'mitho' (tasty) but look pretty disgusting. If you found one of these jars in your pantry, I don't think you 'd even want to try to open it!




I am enjoying teaching at the school. The last few days have been cloudy, so it seems as if I never take off my fleecy sweater and down vest. The kids wear their jackets in class, too. Heath has had little luck with volunteering in the monastery. The monks have been absent for much of the time we have been here and now they are preparing for exams before they go south. This means that we will also head south for Kathmandu before too long. The Tibetan refuge school in Chelsea (higher up the ridge) that we visited will also close for the winter because it is too cold to teach.

I can't say that I am too sad to leave this beautiful area. We are cold much of the time. It isn't a problem that it is cold outside, but that one can not warm up INSIDE the house. We can see our breath inside from dawn to dusk, if not longer. There is no insulation, we can see light through cracks in our walls, and the window pane doesn't fit in the frame, either. We have to wear our outside clothes for eating, as the family leaves the front door open much of the time and there is a cool breeze entering the eating area. The warmest place is in front of the fire, but the family usually sits there. Lately they have been sitting around an open campfire-style iron holder that is filled with red-hot smouldering embers. It does little to warm up the room, and nothing for the rest of the house. Washing clothes in cold water is brutal on the hands. I find I can wash only two articles of clothing before my hands are red and burning. I have to take a break and shove them in my pockets to thaw before continuing. Yesterday I realized I burnt off all the little hairs from the back of my fingers tops. This must have happened when I was holding them in front of the stove-top flames to warm up after doing laundry!
Raven has her birthday today. Luckily for us a bakery just opened that advertised western style birthday cakes. We asked the baker to make us one, and when we enquired about the cost he said he'd know after he made it! Don't you love Nepal?! She will now be allowed access to Facebook, so you may be getting a friend request soon. We were planning on skipping school on her day, spending the morning at the internet 'cafe' so she could set up her profile, then walking to Phaplu for an extravagant lunch in a lodge.As it turned out, Rave wasn't feeling 100% (we think she didn't want to walk far!) So we made fried egg sandwiches at our house instead. The cake turned out pretty good- but the icing was more yak butter than sweet.
As it turns out there is another festival on Wednesday, so most kids won't be in school anyway- they will be walking to a temple a few hours away.


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