We’re finally
settling in here in Salleri, acclimatizing to the cold, spending more time
outside in the sun, and enjoying the latest festival, Tihar. As the Nepali
equivalent of Diwali, the Festival of Lights, Tihar looks a lot like Christmas!
Everyday becomes more colorful, with lights, candles, strings of flowers hung
over the doorways. Every day has significance and certain rituals; the first
day rice is offered to the crows, as messengers of death sent by the god Yama.
Then dogs, cows, and bulls all receive tikas and strings of flowers around
their necks. Last night, Wed, the third night, is when goddess Lakshmi visits
all the houses that are suitably lit for her presence. In front of each
doorstep, people had painted circles or pentagrams in vivid colors, with a line
leading inside, some with little painted footsteps. Each one had candles and
offerings of fruit, rice, incense and other treats. The children go door to
door singing songs and receiving money. It‘s like a cross between Xmas and
Halloween. There was a bit of a dance party in the square. There were men, then
women, then both, then young girls, all performing amazing routines before the
dancing spread to the gathered crowd. We were draped with scarves and swept up
into the circle. It was the first frosty night here, so we were glad to warm
up, dancing and laughing, then making a quick get-away as they broke out the
raaksi, a hot wine that is definitely an acquired taste. The music played until
after midnight, a very rare occasion in Nepal! Not surprisingly, things were
pretty quiet around the square this morning…
On Tuesday, Vincent
and I were finally shown the monastery we are hoping to teach at. It was a
great time to visit, as a senior lama was blessing the new stupa. We were given
a dab of milk with a marigold flower, which you smear on your forehead and into
your hair, then draped with the scarves reserved for celebrations and special
events. The monk blessed a statue of the Buddha, and then three men carried it
carefully up a ladder to its new home, gazing knowingly down from the recess in
the top of the stupa. Incense was wafted, rice passed around, and as the lama
chanted, we followed along, tossing grains of rice into the air, prayer flags
and scarves dancing on the wind. Enveloped and entranced, it’s a day I won’t
soon forget. We were invited into the monastery, painted with intricate scenes
of Buddha, young and old, and the gods in all their manifestations. The artist
invited us to visit another monastery he’s almost finished, about an hour’s
walk away, back near the airport. The next day, on the way there, I put my
camera down while I took off a layer, finally warm in the afternoon sun. After
stuffing my vest into the pack, I hurried to catch up with Su, Raven, and
Vincent, the 19 year old Dutch volunteer staying in the same home as us. After
about 10 minutes, I realized I had left the camera behind! We quickly searched
all of our bags before I started back, hoping I might find it where I’d left
it…No such luck. The police station was just up the street, so I asked there
first, hoping it might have been turned in. Still no luck. I thought for a few minutes that they did have
it, with all the ubiquitous and undecipherable head shaking, but they just
thought I wanted to take their picture! I continued on, asking shopkeepers
along the way, but judging by all the strange looks and non-committal
responses, I can only imagine that they assumed I wanted to buy a camera. I
eventually gave up and carried on to the monastery in Phaplu. What a treasure!
Over 200 years old, it contains Tibetan stone tablets inscribed with Buddhist
text, a complete set of Buddha’s writings, and another set translated into more
accessible language. The artist also had some paintings on canvas for sale, but
we don’t have $350, or a decent way to transport a painting back home. After
watching a plane land on the dirt runway from the courtyard out back, we said
our goodbyes and went in search of some lunch. Some trekkers had just flown in,
and were checking into a hotel near the airport. We found as actual menu,
complete with such delicacies as omelettes, spring rolls, and apple pie.
Vincent is pretty broke, and Su was OK going back to the 10 rupee samosa shop
in Salleri, but I was desperately craving some protein. I was more than
prepared to spend 240 rupees ($3) on a cheese spring roll and a veg. omelette,
so we parted ways. The dynamics of travelling alone instantly took effect, and
the rest of the day was filled with conversations with a third grade teacher
from Arizona, Alexis, and a few Nepali men back in Niia Bazaar. When travelling
solo, you find companions and curious locals at every turn. I certainly don’t
regret travelling as a family, but it was nice to make some connections, even
if one was with a half-drunk 18 year old who was throwing the F bomb around
like candy at a parade.
On Friday, while Su
and Raven spent some time at our favorite internet café, open again after the
festival, I went to the police station to make a report for the lost camera, as
per our expensive insurance. This is the first time in my life that I’ve gone
to the police for help! It took a while, with lots of animated chatter in
Nepalese, and a staticy radio call to headquarters. Eventually I just had to
write out a statement of my stupidity, sign and date it, before they adorned it
with a 10 rupee stamp, to make it official, I presume. Then they instructed me
to return in a few days, so they could ‘search for it’. I’m not holding my
breath, but will continue to manifest its return. At least the insurance should
cover it, but I sure miss having a camera, and must send an extra thanks to
Cathy for getting Raven her own camera before we left, because I’ve been using
it a lot!
Saturday’s market
was much quieter, last week everyone was stocking up for Tihar. We went early
to scoop up some yummy oranges, which get picked over quickly. We’ve been
dreaming of the yak butter we saw last week, so Su got some of that, for even
better buns and honey! Su couldn’t resist some fresh, crunchy carrots, while I
had no luck finding firecrackers. The kids have been lighting them off
constantly all week, throwing them up above their heads and shrieking with
delight as they explode. Su talked me into buying a Buddha necklace that the
locals wear, and I saw some Shiva and Ganesh stickers that I think will look
great on the Blazer. Last but not least, I needed some pens, three of which
have died in the last week! Later, on our way through Salleri, we found a new
bakery with cakes, bread, and pizza. Whoo Hooooo, I exclaimed. We picked up
some samosas, tomatoes, onions, garlic, bread and pizza, and had an impromptu
picnic on a pile of rocks, finally in t-shirts with under the warm afternoon
sun, stunning views of the mountains in the distance.
Today, Sunday, was just a fantastic day! Vincent was heading to the health clinic in Chyalsa, and an English girl named Kate was also heading there with her guide. Su and I had been almost all the way there, on an exploratory wander the other day. The trail passes a stone outcrop that has been inscribed with Buddhist text, painted in the bright reds, blues and whites the Nepalese seem so fond of. It sits alone in a farmer’s field, surrounded by prayer flags. After another few hundred meters of elevation gain, there is an old monastery with incredible views of the mountains north of Salleri.
This is as far as Su and I had gone,
but Chyalsa is not much further along a dusty path through the forest of pines,
alders and rhododendron trees. At this elevation, Nepal reminds me a lot of BC.
Chyalsa is a monastery and Tibetan refugee village. We stopped for a drink of
Tang with the doctor, before he started the immunizations. I found a goat tied
up around back, with a single black kid nibbling on fresh shoots of grass.
Raven and I played with the goats for a while, letting them lick the salt off
our hands and suckle our fingers. Kate and her guide, Kami, turned up just
then. We started talking about a possible viewpoint for seeing Everest, and
Kami suggested that it was less than an hour up to the top of the ridge.
Vincent wanted to stay and assist the doctor, but the rest of us decided that
since it was such a clear day, it would be worth the effort to hike up. Well,
Raven took some convincing, but we set off with her grumbling behind about how
we’ve ruined her life. We passed through some steep, dense forest, then out
into an open heath, prayer flags marking the viewpoint above.
That's Everest peeking out from behind the two sharp peaks, left of center.
I was worried that it might be cloudy near Everest, but there it was, behind the range of snowy mountains closest to us, but appearing just as tall. As an added bonus, it was so clear, we could see Kantchenjunga on the horizon, poking up over the distant hills. I’ve seen Kantchenjunga before, from Darjeeling, in India 15 years ago, but seeing the 1st and 3rd tallest peaks in the world at the same time was sublime. We took plenty of pictures, and then headed down the ridge a ways for lunch at a tiny little teahouse at the pass. Some of the best noodle soup that I’ve ever had! Ah, the simple pleasures…Raven’s mood lifted with the tea and soup, and we managed to get some pictures of all three of us together, squinty, but smiling contentedly. Today, we got to see Mt. Everest!
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