Lumbini JAN 21
We chose to stay in the Korean
Monastery for two reasons; One, it was cheap R300 ($3.50) per person
per night which included 3 meals a day, and Two, it seemed like a
pretty cool idea to stay in a monastery. The additional perk turned
out to be 'location location location'. Because it was within the
park, it was closer walking distance to the other monasteries as well
as far away from the small businesses and residential areas (think no
barking dogs!) of Lumbini town. The park is a World Heritage Site
consisting of several international Buddhist monasteries surrounded
by flat wetlands and fields. The centre of the site is landscaped
with walkways, canals and the eternal flame. The entire site is about
4 km by 2.5 km, much of it under continual construction as donations
trickle in. We fell into a relaxed routine for the 3 nights we spent
here. Time in Chitwan was spent with full days of 'touristing', so we
treated Lumbini as down time, especially needed as our next stop will
be chaotic India. Raven wasn't interested in sightseeing within the
park, but every morning we walked the twenty minutes into town after
our 6am breakfast, devoured coffee and second breakfast with
complementary wifi in a quiet and spacious hotel restaurant. The flat
walk there and back barely fulfilled her P.E. requirements, but the
rest of the day she could focus on school work, after having her fill
of friend time via internet social media. Heath and I took turns
hanging out with her while the other took in the sights of stupas,
temples, international monasteries, gardens, ponds and walking areas.
school work in the dorm room
Monastery life:
The single sex dorm rooms contained an
entrance area for shoes and bags, a spacious sparse room with bamboo
rods on the wall for the mosquito netting, thin mattresses and
bedding for five. Raven used her pink net more decoration purposes,
as there were only a few 'skeeters. The bathroom area was at the back
of the room, consisting of a sink in one room and a toilet in the
other. These rooms had counters, walls and floors of grey unpainted
concrete. If you wanted a shower with hot water (and I use the term
'hot' loosely here), you could have your own concrete cubical with a
hot and cold tap at knee level, fill your wash basin and sponge bath
yourself in tepid water from 5pm-8pm.
Meals were announced by a ringing bell
at 6am, 11:30 and 6pm. It was buffet style. You picked up your tin
plate and one or two bowls and proceeded down the line choosing the
inevitable white rice and about five choices of curried vegetables,
and a pot of bland vegetable broth. The first night we were excited
to eat a piece of salted nori. Raven and I haven't snacked on dried
seaweed since Canada. Black tea was available inside the dining room,
as well as a powdered bean and brown rice drink that you could eat
sweetened or plain. I tried it, but it wasn't too my liking. When
your meal was finished we lined up at the washing trough. There was a
kneeling spot, and many cold water taps at knee level. Dish washing
soap bars and scrubbies were provided so you could clean your own
dishes, then stack them to dry in another area.
Worship followed dinner. The first
night here I thought (o.k., assumed) it was meditation time, and
unforgettably I squeaked into the candle lit temple at the last
moment, leaving my shoes at the door. Quickly taking off my down vest
I saw one occupied mat at the front behind two monks, and in my hurry
I sat down on it cross legged. I saw others kneeling, but knew I
couldn't sit like that for half an hour, so I shut my eyes, and tried
to still my mind. Moments later I felt a gentle but persuasive hand
push me up and off the mat, directing me to a smaller one to our
left. It was the woman who had been closing the main doors who had
put out for me. I realized at that moment that the mat I had chosen
was the bottom of the triangle made by the two monks, and it was
hers. I needn't of worried about my sitting still for half an hour,
as we rose and bowed continuously while chanting. Being in the front
row did not help my embarrassment, as I had no idea what I was
supposed to be doing. Another case where expectations get the worst
of me!
The ceremony or worship was powerful,
starting with one of the monks hitting a big cymbal which echoed
throughout the spacious building. Throughout the chanting, a monk
would hit a small percussion instrument, which would signal rising to
stand, hands in prayer position in front of your chest, or kneeling
and bowing forward, head to the floor or mat. At one point the signal
was for everyone to turn to the left, then again, later, to the
right, before finishing the worship front facing. At the end, one of
the congregation put out the hundred or so candles burning along the
side and front counters, and in their place pink lotus flower
electric lamps were lit.
I participated in the ceremony each
night we stayed. The second night I made no embarrassing blunders,
but the third night I was again instructed to move, as I was in a
center area that was supposed to be empty. “No sit center”
someone informed me. Some of the people staying in the monastery
chose to participate. Heath and I had a discussion about whether or
not it was appropriate to attend a worship of a different faith. I
may have been the only non-Buddhist, but there were a few other
novices. One of the tour groups from Korea had young people attend,
and while they may have 'known the moves', some of them didn't appear
too respectful as they were chatting to each other throughout. In the
end we decided that if one was respectful and open minded, it would
be o.k. to attend.
Korean temple center left
Everyone was welcome to stay at the
monastery. There appeared to be only a few monks, as well as other
practitioners of Buddhism. There were backpackers like us, as well as
tour busloads of Koreans that would stay for one night on their tour
of Nepal. Most of the other monasteries were incredibly decorative
with stunning paintings, gold Buddhas and ornate details surrounded
by manicured gardens and ponds. The Koreans make a minimalist
statement with their impressive unpainted grey temple.
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