Friday, January 25, 2013

The Birthplace of Sakyamuni Buddha

Lumbini JAN 21

We chose to stay in the Korean Monastery for two reasons; One, it was cheap R300 ($3.50) per person per night which included 3 meals a day, and Two, it seemed like a pretty cool idea to stay in a monastery. The additional perk turned out to be 'location location location'. Because it was within the park, it was closer walking distance to the other monasteries as well as far away from the small businesses and residential areas (think no barking dogs!) of Lumbini town. The park is a World Heritage Site consisting of several international Buddhist monasteries surrounded by flat wetlands and fields. The centre of the site is landscaped with walkways, canals and the eternal flame. The entire site is about 4 km by 2.5 km, much of it under continual construction as donations trickle in. We fell into a relaxed routine for the 3 nights we spent here. Time in Chitwan was spent with full days of 'touristing', so we treated Lumbini as down time, especially needed as our next stop will be chaotic India. Raven wasn't interested in sightseeing within the park, but every morning we walked the twenty minutes into town after our 6am breakfast, devoured coffee and second breakfast with complementary wifi in a quiet and spacious hotel restaurant. The flat walk there and back barely fulfilled her P.E. requirements, but the rest of the day she could focus on school work, after having her fill of friend time via internet social media. Heath and I took turns hanging out with her while the other took in the sights of stupas, temples, international monasteries, gardens, ponds and walking areas.



 school work in the dorm room

Monastery life:
The single sex dorm rooms contained an entrance area for shoes and bags, a spacious sparse room with bamboo rods on the wall for the mosquito netting, thin mattresses and bedding for five. Raven used her pink net more decoration purposes, as there were only a few 'skeeters. The bathroom area was at the back of the room, consisting of a sink in one room and a toilet in the other. These rooms had counters, walls and floors of grey unpainted concrete. If you wanted a shower with hot water (and I use the term 'hot' loosely here), you could have your own concrete cubical with a hot and cold tap at knee level, fill your wash basin and sponge bath yourself in tepid water from 5pm-8pm.

Meals were announced by a ringing bell at 6am, 11:30 and 6pm. It was buffet style. You picked up your tin plate and one or two bowls and proceeded down the line choosing the inevitable white rice and about five choices of curried vegetables, and a pot of bland vegetable broth. The first night we were excited to eat a piece of salted nori. Raven and I haven't snacked on dried seaweed since Canada. Black tea was available inside the dining room, as well as a powdered bean and brown rice drink that you could eat sweetened or plain. I tried it, but it wasn't too my liking. When your meal was finished we lined up at the washing trough. There was a kneeling spot, and many cold water taps at knee level. Dish washing soap bars and scrubbies were provided so you could clean your own dishes, then stack them to dry in another area.


Worship followed dinner. The first night here I thought (o.k., assumed) it was meditation time, and unforgettably I squeaked into the candle lit temple at the last moment, leaving my shoes at the door. Quickly taking off my down vest I saw one occupied mat at the front behind two monks, and in my hurry I sat down on it cross legged. I saw others kneeling, but knew I couldn't sit like that for half an hour, so I shut my eyes, and tried to still my mind. Moments later I felt a gentle but persuasive hand push me up and off the mat, directing me to a smaller one to our left. It was the woman who had been closing the main doors who had put out for me. I realized at that moment that the mat I had chosen was the bottom of the triangle made by the two monks, and it was hers. I needn't of worried about my sitting still for half an hour, as we rose and bowed continuously while chanting. Being in the front row did not help my embarrassment, as I had no idea what I was supposed to be doing. Another case where expectations get the worst of me!

The ceremony or worship was powerful, starting with one of the monks hitting a big cymbal which echoed throughout the spacious building. Throughout the chanting, a monk would hit a small percussion instrument, which would signal rising to stand, hands in prayer position in front of your chest, or kneeling and bowing forward, head to the floor or mat. At one point the signal was for everyone to turn to the left, then again, later, to the right, before finishing the worship front facing. At the end, one of the congregation put out the hundred or so candles burning along the side and front counters, and in their place pink lotus flower electric lamps were lit.

I participated in the ceremony each night we stayed. The second night I made no embarrassing blunders, but the third night I was again instructed to move, as I was in a center area that was supposed to be empty. “No sit center” someone informed me. Some of the people staying in the monastery chose to participate. Heath and I had a discussion about whether or not it was appropriate to attend a worship of a different faith. I may have been the only non-Buddhist, but there were a few other novices. One of the tour groups from Korea had young people attend, and while they may have 'known the moves', some of them didn't appear too respectful as they were chatting to each other throughout. In the end we decided that if one was respectful and open minded, it would be o.k. to attend.






Korean temple center left

Everyone was welcome to stay at the monastery. There appeared to be only a few monks, as well as other practitioners of Buddhism. There were backpackers like us, as well as tour busloads of Koreans that would stay for one night on their tour of Nepal. Most of the other monasteries were incredibly decorative with stunning paintings, gold Buddhas and ornate details surrounded by manicured gardens and ponds. The Koreans make a minimalist statement with their impressive unpainted grey temple. 

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