Sunday, December 23, 2012

The Epic Jeep Ride from Salleri To Kathmandu.

 
  The jeep driver was due to pick up our bags sometime Saturday before noon. We were still enjoying our tea and our ‘last dhal bhaat’, when we heard the distinctive rattling of a diesel jeep pulling up outside. Sure enough, a sharp, capable looking machine was disgorging passengers and shedding various loads from the roof rack. I was immediately excited. I love a good 4x4 trip as much as anybody, but this was going to be a marathon. Roughly 20 hours, depending on road blockages, breakdowns, food and fuel stops. We were asked if we could leave at 2:00 in the afternoon, instead of 3:00 AM. We would break up the drive with a food stop and a few hours of sleep in some town whose name we never did figure out.  We all agreed without hesitation, and started to plan our last few hours in Salleri. It was market day, which was a perfect send off, the most active and entertaining day of the week. Vincent and I made a last visit to the artist we’d befriended, who was painting yet another monastery. We cut our visit short, said our goodbyes, and got some snacks for the jeep ride. As we walked through Salleri one last time, I realized how much I would miss it. We were rarely comfortable, and Su did develop a nasty lung and ear infection, but the slow pace and friendly smiles had won me over. I’d miss the strong family and community bonds, general lack of marketing and media in general, and the close connection to the land, and to their religions. There is also something about having an old Nepali man or woman stop and stare at you, wide eyed and slack jawed, like you just stepped out of a spaceship. Our time in rural Nepal will never let me take for granted the level of luxury we have become accustomed to in Canada. We have so much, yet always consume more.

 
  Once we got to the jeep, I initially thought we were miscommunicating when they said there would be nine passengers. Thankfully they asked if I wanted to sit shotgun, up with the driver, and I selfishly jumped at the opportunity! In the second row, Su, Raven and Vincent could sit with their shoulders touching, reaching from one side of the jeep to the other, snug, but acceptable. Only one more person had to squeeze in; and four more sat in the space behind the seats, in the cargo area. I was very thankful to have such a great seat, taking pictures, and feeling slightly guilty. I think the first five hours were the roughest, we used the 4X4 the most during this first section, only ever using 1st and 2nd gear. We drove from 3:30 pm until 9:30 pm, when we ate dinner and slept for 4 hours in a hotel. The driver was a machine. Besides the dinner break, we drove from 3:30 AM until 12:30 PM, with one quick stop for tea as we waited for a river ferry. The ferry is an open concept steel barge,  using cables to position itself in the river, so that the current can propel it from side to side, held in place by an over -head cable and pulley system. Very efficient and ingenious, just a little slow.

  Flying over the brown scars of the rural roads connecting more and more communities with the city and the world, and even walking along the rutted, rocky and steep tracks, does nothing prepare you for how rough the roads really are. There were many sections that would certainly be completely impassable in the monsoon. Sections with deep, talcum powder dust, 5 or 6 inches deep,  would  quickly turn to impossibly slippery and steep deathtraps, with shear drop offs, complete with the wreckage of trucks  and busses that had never finished their journey. We lost the daylight all too early, but some part of me thought it was probably for the better, as we wound our way up and over valley after valley, switch-back by tight switch-back. Occasionally we could see clusters of dim lights on the hillsides below us, and even made out a few constellations, by chance or imagination. The dawn light revealed one of the largest rock-slides I’ve ever seen. Hope Slide is fairly impressive, but this unknown river of rock choked the valley, cutting away precious food producing terraces and leaving nothing but boulders and stone in return. The road carved into the unstable bank was pretty dodgy, but we had been given many blessings for a safe journey, so I wasn’t too terrified! After we crossed the river by ‘ferry’, we continued along the river bank for some time, driving through countless creeks, streams, and rivers, many of which had massive modern highway bridge construction projects, all in varying stages of completion. The terrain that separated these bridges was very rough; steep, bumpy, dusty tracks in a constant cycle of collapse and repair. We passed through some incredibly remote villages, a day’s walk from anywhere, cut off completely during the monsoon.  So basic, yet so beautiful and rare in their traditional and seasonal rhythm; and a lack of marketing and consumerist ideals, where family and community are everything.

  I had assumed that as we got closer to Kathmandu, the roads would begin to gradually improve. Yes and no… Eventually, we started being tempted by the siren call of a freshly paved highway down below, deceptively disappearing into the distance. We were still celebrating when it ended three minutes later, as we turned onto a very steep dusty grind that I was very glad I didn’t have to walk up. On the other side, as we were descending, a motorcycle had to stop in the deep, powdery dust to give us the right of way. He was instantly stuck. Some other pedestrians pushed him out and he wobbled on, disappearing up hill in a thick cloud of fine dust.

  I switched seats with Vincent, stretching some different muscles and moving my feet again after driving from 3:30 AM until 2:30 PM, on top of the 5 hours the night before.  Visibility was still quite good, but with nothing to hang onto in the middle seat, I was getting just tossed around, rag doll style.  My oblique, intercostal muscles and neck were still aching the next day. The jeep driver had stopped at one of the riverside “carwashes” once we hit pavement for good, scrubbing the beast down and tossing any garbage into the river, for at least half an hour. He lived in Pepsi Cola, so we knew where we would end up, but had gotten word that our old room was occupied, so we would still have to find out which place we’d be moving to. It was fully dark as we came into Kathmandu, but the smog was still noticeable, black and choking. Thankfully, Bishal and Angela were on hand to greet us and organize the weary travellers. It turned out that we could have the same homestay family! I had been dreaming of the spacious living room for daily yoga. It has worked out perfectly!

   I’ve started teaching a 7:30am daily class in the living room to some of the other volunteers. Tej also has plans for me to teach at the school. The afternoons are getting cool already, so it looks like I’ll only teach the morning class, but I am so thankful and full of joy at being able to guide these kindred spirits as we all continue the work of becoming aware, selfless,  and capable of making better decisions every day.  So much to be thankful for, even after a 27 hour jeep ride.

 

  I’ve just realized that tomorrow will be Christmas Eve! It certainly doesn’t feel like it, with highs around 22-24 degrees, and only occasional morning fog. The skies have been clear enough lately for us to realize the mountain ranges closest to Kathmandu actually loom over the city. We are thinking of all of you at home that we will miss so much this year. I’ve grown attached to the twinkling trees, the family gatherings, and the time we take to stop and enjoy the company of those closest to us (when they’re around ;). We send warm wishes, big hugs, and may joy overflow. Namaste, and Merry Christmas.





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