Our first day outside Pepsi-Cola started with hunger pangs, as we waited for our host family to serve breakfast. We’ve since asked them for an earlier breaking of the fast! This is a bit of a trial period for both of us, being their first guests. They are very accommodating, though, so it’s getting easier all the time. We rushed off to our Nepali lesson at the VSN, cramming in a morning greeting with the other volunteers and some email. Then we followed Angela ‘Ji’ through the labyrinth of Kathmandu public transit to Boudhanath Stupa, the largest stupa in Nepal, and the heart of Tibetan Buddism. It’s a little touristy, but is also a very genuine Buddist shrine. First , we stopped for an incredibly indugent lunch at a G Café, feasting on pizza and pop! I almost needed a nap.

 

There are countless monasteries nearby, and many monks walking the clockwise circle around the stupa, spinning prayer wheels as they go, prayer flags flapping in the breeze, the all seeing eyes of the Budda watching over. We entered into two monasteries, speaking in whispers and humbled by the centuries of tradition and devotion we stood before. We spun a prayer wheel 10 ft tall, pounded a drum under the direction of smiling monks. You could feel the reverberations through your whole being. We were given incense to light, had various objects touched to our heads, then received a blessing and necklace from a serene senior monk. The sun sank through the flags and devotees, lighting up the golden tops of the gleaming white stupa. I could spend a whole day there, walking the ancient path, spinning prayers to the heavens. 

 

 I accidently haggled my way into two superb singing bowls, but I’m pretty sure I got a good price.  He started out at 1200 rupees for one, and we eventually agreed on 1500 for the two. I’m getting my negotiating legs back.  The trip back took quite a bit longer, as it was rush hour, even though I hadn’t thought it possible that there could be more traffic than earlier.  We spent some extra time using the internet back at VSN, still withdrawing from the easy, constant access to information we’ve become so used to. The most important Hindu festival in Nepal is starting soon, so the schools are out. They are looking for things to keep the kids from several of the orphanages busy, so I’m going to teach some yoga classes for them. Only 30 mins at a time, but it should be interesting to see how they respond. I can’t wear my yoga shorts here, either. The days are full, as is my head by the end of each day. Full of smiling faces, new phrases, and the challenges of being immersed in a culture so different from ours. Despite the challenges, this is so much more rewarding than simply backpacking around, dancing through a cozy, westernized version of local culture, free to move along at the slightest discomfort or hint of boredom. Raven never ceases to amaze me with her adaptability. She’s taking it all in stride, happier now that she has more kids to be a kid with. I thought she might be more shocked by the poverty, haphazard and reckless resourcefulness, and occasional filth. I seem to remember now that returning home to such a sterile, controlled, and sometimes contrived culture, is where the real culture shock kicks in. I’m not as naive as I once was, and obviously enjoy the stability and opportunity that has allowed us to flourish. I am thankful for the great gifts I have received since last experiencing these vast differences in culture. Since I last returned, I’ve learned most of what I know about family, community, construction, sailing, yoga. I’m just very aware of the influence that the contrast had on me, and can only imagine the places this trip will lead Raven in the next 15 years. Eternally grateful, Namaste.